Hello from Espana'

Good Morning! And what a georgous morning it is here in Girona. Our last update we were in Ceret getting ready to make the last few climbs that would take us into Spain. Well much has happend since then and we want to share it all with you so.....sit back relax and join us on a wonderful journey through the Pyrenees!


After spending a wonderful evening in Ceret we had a lovely breakfast, sent one more update to the blog site and pedaled out of Ceret under warm slightly overcast skies. Until getting to Ceret we were still uncertain as to the route to take into Spain. Originally we were going to go through Andora but due to weather in that area we turned further east with plans to cross right along the coastline. The night before arriving in Ceret we met a family from the States (San Juan Islands) who had just crossed over the boarder through La Vajol. They explained that the La Vajol crossing is not accessible via car. It is the pass that was used by the French when they fled France in WWII to escape capture by the Germans!

It sounded like the perfect way for us to cross into Spain! So off we pedaled with our spirits high and our legs feeling strong. The road leading to the top is very very steep but very very beautiful!! It was so incredibly quiet, the pavement was smooth and we saw only an occational car. As a bike rider I have to say that it was one of those truly amazing climbs where you are so taken in by your surroundings that you don´t even feel the steepness of the climb. For those of you who knew my friend Geri, I can tell you that she was right there with me. Each time I came to an extremely steep section a Dragonfly would suddenly appear and fly next to me as I made my way up the hill. The weather was perfect for climbing! It was fairly warm but with the thin layer of clouds we never felt the sun beat down on us and we even enjoyed a few soft cool breezes. Just at the top of the climb on the French side of the mountain is the town of Llama. This town was exactly what you would imagine to find at the top of the pyrenees. Very quiet, no one on the streets. You could tell that the people who lived here were here because they did not want to be part of the mainstream. With no road signs to tell us which way to turn we were in a bit of a quandry as to what to do.........But as I said Geri was there with me the whole time. Not a sole was to be seen in this town when suddenly a door opended and out walks an Asian woman who in very clear English asks us where we are going! She pointed us in the right direction but not before telling us that it is "very very steep".

With less that 3km to go we felt bullet proof. However after turning the corner and looking up up up at the wall they called a road we suddenly felt full of holes! We dug down deep and somehow found the strength to push up the last bit of road which in addition to looking like a wall it was only partially paved and that part was even a little scetchy.

At the top of the mountain the partially paved road now became a dirt road with 8 different trees that had been chopped down to block the passage of cars! So taking all the gear off of the bikes and detatching the trailer together we hauled the bikes and gear over the trees. On the opposite side the road was not rideable so we pushed our bikes the remaining 200meters into Spain!

Under a beautiful blue sky we entered Espana'!!!!! At the top there is a monument to WWII and the rememberance of those who crossed the pyrenees to flee the Germans. We sat at the foot of the monument with only the sounds of the breeze through the trees, birds singing, and cow bells ringing in the distance. It was truly a wonderful experience for us. To come so far and work so hard and then to be able to sit and enjoy such a serene and beautiful area. And we had it ALL to ourselves. Not another sole to be seen!

After sharing a much deserved Snickers Bar we climbed back on the bikes to head down the mountain. As we started out our path was suddenly blocked by a HUGE white sheep dog! This beautiful dog was hearding his flock of goats across the road. No shepard around, just the dog and his goats. He blocked our path as he hurried his flock across the road. Once they were all safely across he then stood gaurd as we pedaled past. What a wonderful way to be welcomed into Spain!

Each day of cycle touring you experience such a wide range of emotions. In the morning you wake usually a "little achy" but after a few cups of coffee and some cereal your spirits perk up and you look forward to the days adventures. If the weather is warm and skies sunny that light happy feeling stays with you and you feel indistructable. As the challenges of the days ride insue you have moments where you feel as though you can´t possibly turn the crank one more revelution but then you look up and are greeted by something beautiful that you know you would not ever had seen had you not been going 4miles/hr and you find new energy. This up and down of emotions continues throughout the day. If you are lucky you get to end the day on the upside of the emotions. But it seems that on the best days we always seem to presented with the biggest challenges at the end of the day.

Our last day in the Pyrenees was one of those days. We were litterally on cloud nine most of the day. Only 3km from the Spain boarder we stopped at a restuarant to have lunch and a celebratory cold Cerveza. What a kick this restaurant was. The people in France are very quiet. Everywhere they speak in soft tones and you do not hear much laughter. I don´t want you to think they are not friendly because they were VERY friendly but they are a very quiet culture. So it was a big change for us when we pedaled into the parking lot of the restaurant and could hear music and laughter! There was a party goin on at 2:00 in the afternoon! A bus of elderly people were there and they were having themselves a grand time. The music was playing and they were shakin their boodies!

With only about 25km to go we left the restaurant and pointed the wheels down hill! But as I mentioned a day in the life of a cycle tourist is full of emotions and challenges. I had been fighting an intestinal BUG for the past 24hrs. While climbing the mountain I think all my energy was sent to my heart, lungs, and legs. Well now that we were going downhill.........well I´ll just let you use your imagination! Needless to say it was not a pleasant leisurely afternoon ride. The road map in Spain is not as detailed as in France and there are actually few roads. What roads there are do not have very good signage and we made a few wrong turns. Once we finally figured out which way to go, mother nature decided we had had enough nice weather and she brought in the clouds and RAIN. My goodness did it rain. So not only did I have to stop on the side of the road every few kilometers (thats probably a little too much information) it was pouring cats and dogs. The only saving grace was that it was not cold. I have to laugh everytime I think of this next part..........

We are riding along, Bob is well ahead of me (can you blame him) and we are both completely soaked! As the rain begins to come down in sheets he slows enough to ask me if I want to stop to put on my rain gear? At this point we are both so soaked that you could litterally wring us out and fill a gallon bucket! Poor guy he just didn´t know what to do for me. I just put my head down and kept pedaling. Eventually we made it to the campground which turned out to be a very nice spot. They had a great patio where we took shelter and waited for the rain to stop. Which eventually it did.

The following day we were once again feeling energized and excitted about getting to Girona! With map handy and some scetchy directions from one of the locals we set out for Girona. The road held much promise for a lovely 40mile ride to Girona. However........our lovely road soon turned to dirt and gravel with lots of short steep hills thrown in for good measure. It was lovely country however and with the sun shinning we pedaled and walked (as the road dictated) our way along. Oh but lets not forget Bob´s flat tires!!!!! He definately has a problem with the rear wheel and although we have tried everything we can think of to figure out what is wrong he contiunues to get a flat about every 10MILES! We have become experts at changing flats and repairing the tubes! It will be good to get to Girona and a bikeshop!!!!!!

Girona is a lovely city!!!! Sherry´s friends Tony & Jody Cruz live here while Tony is cycle racing. Tony set us up with the family whom he rents an apt. from when he stays here. They have been everybit as wonderful as Tony & Jody told us they would be. As soon as we mention Tony & Jody doors just start opening for us. What a wonderful welcome we have recieved. The apt we are renting has 4 bedrooms! It feels good to be able to spread our stuff out and not to have to look in a baggie to find what you want to wear that day.

We went to the grocery store yesterday afternoon which was quite the adventure. If any of you have seen Tom Hank´s movie "The Terminal" well then you will understand when I tell you that we though we were living that movie. It took us about 1 hour to do the shopping and another 2 hours to figure out how to get out of the store! It was pretty commical! Here we are with 10 bags of groceries and we can`t find the exit. Oh it would have been easy had we had a car. You just wheel the cart right out the door into the parking garage.......but we had come via our bikes which were parked out front on the sidewalk. The only way out was through the parking garage and they wouldn´t let us wheel the cart out of the garage!!!!! But eventually we worked it out, loaded our arms up with the bags and struggled up the escallators and out into the fresh air!!!!!

I could go on and on but the day is beautiful and you are probably loosing interest. So goodbye for now. We are headed to the beach this afternoon and later today we will get to meet with Serge! Serge and his family live in the apartment across from ours and they are good friends of Tony & Jody´s.


Update on the flats

Bob 19 flat tires!!!!
Sherry 0 flat tires!!!!

Bye for now!
Bob & Sherry